Extraterrestrial Vegetables
Sure, my tag line says cuisine, but it's been months since I mentioned
it. I used to cook as often as
Tony seems to, with his Asparagus flarf and plates full of delicious-looking
stuff that isn't on anyone's diet. I'm still a good cook, I just don't
have anybody to cook for. Junie has been on an admirable and healthy diet
protocol, my kids are at work and college, and when we get together at Cath's,
she usually does the honors (and she's a good cook, too). I'll take a
break from my monotonous diet of pasta and do up a good paella tonight.
Some kind of sausage, RedBird chicken thighs and big scallops will be in the
mix. Also, red peppers, asparagus, and peas. First, make the
sofrito: tomato paste, diced fresh or canned tomatoes, onion, garlic
and a little paprika, sautéed until the water
evaporates from the tomato. Then, add the short-grained rice, Arborio if
you have it, Bomba brand Spanish rice if you can find it. In a separate
pan, sear some chicken thighs in olive oil until they're glazed on the outside
but still underdone on the inside. You can use wings and even breasts,
though the latter is a bit extravagant for paella, since the chicken is actually
standing in for rabbit. I used to make the stock from the chicken parts I
wasn't using, but now I just use Swanson's low-fat, low-sodium chicken stock
which tastes great and is better health-wise. Pour the stock over a couple
of cups of rice and let it start to fuse at a temperature just under medium.
Like risotto, you will probably have to add more stock as time goes on.
Add a healthy pinch of saffron (threads if you can get them, but powder is OK),
even though it will set you back $5-10, unless you stocked up at El Corte Ingles
the last time you were in Spain like I did. After about 10 minutes, you
can add hearty vegetables like asparagus. More fragile ingredients such as
peas, shellfish, and shrimp should be added at the last few minutes. I've
had vegetarian paella, seafood paella, paella with woodland mushrooms, so you're
free to experiment (lima beans, even corn kernels). When
the chicken parts are done, mix them into the paella and bury them under the
rice mixture a bit. Now add some kind of sausage to provide a foil to the
chicken that is pretending to be rabbit. For an authentic paella, let the
bottom crust up a bit, so that you get a socarrat, or caramelized
crust on the bottom. This is tricky, as you don't want to burn the paella,
either. If you have a traditional flat paella pan with sloping sides,
great. If not, a good heavy frying pan will do. Spaniards eat as a
family directly from the pan at home. You can do anything you want, what
the hell.
Cook's Illustrated showed up today, proving that I have no idea what
their publication schedule is. The editor, Christopher Kimball, tried to
suck me in to one of his rambling, earthy, Vermont stories about how he fed
Robert Frost's horses leftover apple pie while they were parked beside the wood,
but I managed to ignore him. Notes From Readers tells us how to
turn bread into muffins (for example, "banana", and the answer is pour it into a
muffin pan). One reader submitted a question with a picture of some wacky
contraption that turns out to be a device for extracting the meat from coconuts.
Quick Tips tells us: if you have leftover brownies, blenderize them
and put the remains in a bag in the freezer for future use as a topping for ice
cream (OK, I have to ask, who has leftover brownies?). An entire article
is devoted to the problem of pan-searing thick steaks, which normally leaves a
pink center, crusty outside and gray in-between (the answer is use your tongs
and move the steak around a lot). Blackened Red Snapper (which most
of the country can't get anyway) is re-thunk. Italian-Style Chicken
with Sausage, Peppers, and Onion is a decent article but doesn't tell an
experienced chef much that he/she didn't already know. Best Vegetable
Curry was interesting, although I can't imagine buying curry powder when you
can make much better stuff with a coffee grinder. Four-Cheese Lasagna
was a good article, as was Hearty Asparagus-Stuffed Omelets. I
didn't care much about the Ultimate Crumb Cake nor An Easier Bran
Muffin. There were articles rating crushed tomatoes (Tuttorosso won),
and $200 toaster ovens (Krups 6-slice Digital Convection Toaster took the
honors), which I largely yawned through. The back page, which is always
some artwork of culinary necessities, was Latin American Vegetables, including
the Tomatillo, Jicama, Batata, Plantain, Nopales, and Yuca. I had the
feeling that these food sources were to be viewed with the same wonderment as
extraterrestrials.
Poetry tomorrow, most likely.